Skip to content
← TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

Portugal · Lisbon

Lisbon in 2 days: viewpoints, narrow lanes and a good excuse for another custard tart

One day around Alfama and the Tagus, another in Belém. Enjoy lovely views, history and tasty breaks, with less time spent in queues.

Artistic illustration inspired by Lisbon’s hills and riverside skyline.
Cover illustration · Lisbon

GETTING STARTED

Save the first day for Santa Luzia, Alfama and Praça do Comércio. On the second, head to Belém: choose between Jerónimos and an exhibition at MAAT, with a stop at Pastéis de Belém. Less zigzagging, more time to enjoy each place.

Who it is for: First-time visitors to Lisbon who want to combine scenery, history and food.

Day 1 · Start with the view, then get a little lost

Lisbon feels especially inviting when your first commitment is simply to look around. Start at Miradouro de Santa Luzia: the tiles and views over Alfama and the Tagus give you plenty to enjoy on your first pause. Instead of rushing to the next sight, take in the rooftops and decide at your own pace which way to go next.

Then explore a section of Alfama. Its appeal lies in the narrow lanes, façades and small changes of perspective; you do not need to collect every street. The area has hills and paved walkways, so reach the viewpoint by whichever transport suits you best and adjust your walk from there. A short distance on the map can demand more effort than it seems.

We suggest keeping this part of the day for walking and stopping, without a tightly timed reservation immediately afterwards. If the climb does not suit your group, replace Alfama with Praça do Comércio and Cais das Colunas. You will still be close to the Tagus and can save the viewpoint for another time.

View of Alfama’s rooftops and the Tagus from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

From Santa Luzia, Alfama and the Tagus help set the pace of your outing.

Photo: Jakub Hałun · CC BY 4.0 · 2025 · image resized.

End the afternoon with room to breathe beside the Tagus

After Alfama’s streets, change the scene at Praça do Comércio. Walk to Cais das Colunas, look back at the square from the riverbank and enjoy the contrast: the city that seemed like a maze now opens up before you. It is a good place to end your outing, sit for a while and decide where to have dinner.

Want to add an attraction? Arco da Rua Augusta features among Turismo de Lisboa’s suggestions and can be an extra visit once you have checked tickets and access. If you are already happy with your day, stay with the square. There is no prize for turning every façade into another queue.

To get from Alfama to the square, check the route from whichever street you finish your walk on. You do not have to retrace your entire outward route: choose a path that makes sense for your group or use transport for this change of scene.

Arco da Rua Augusta seen from Praça do Comércio in Lisbon.

Arco da Rua Augusta marks the entrance to Praça do Comércio.

Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 3.0 · 2012 · image resized.

Day 2 · Jerónimos and a date with a custard tart

Belém deserves a day of its own. Start by choosing your main attraction: if you enjoy architecture, make Mosteiro dos Jerónimos the centrepiece of your outing. Consult Museus e Monumentos de Portugal to organise the visit and allow extra time for entry and travel. The façade alone draws attention, but a decision to visit inside deserves a proper slot in your day.

Now for a stop that fits this outing beautifully: Pastéis de Belém, at Rua de Belém, 84 to 92. The establishment traces its history back to 1837. Order a custard tart and a drink you enjoy, sit down if a seat is available and value this pause as much as the monument. Food is part of the trip too, not just a gap between two photographs.

Our advice is to resist adding every monument in Belém on impulse. Jerónimos, a custard tart and a stretch of waterfront already make a lovely day. If the monastery’s queue or tickets do not fit your plans, keep your food stop and choose the MAAT exhibition introduced below. You will need to travel between these places, so organise the sequence before setting out.

Façade of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém.

At Jerónimos, allow time to take in the architectural details.

Photo: Jakub Hałun · CC BY 4.0 · 2025 · image resized.
View of the takeaway counter area at Pastéis de Belém.

A stop at Pastéis de Belém deserves a place in the itinerary too.

Photo: Sonse · CC BY 2.0 · 2019 · image resized.

A worthwhile swap in Belém: art at MAAT

Prefer art to a second monument visit? According to the programme checked on 1 October 2026, “Turn Around. A Look at the EDP Foundation Art Collection” runs at MAAT Central until 11 January 2027. The exhibition brings together around 90 works and offers a selection of Portuguese art that can give your day in Belém a different flavour.

Use the exhibition as an alternative to Jerónimos if the subject appeals to you more, rather than an extra obligation after a packed day. MAAT is on Avenida Brasília, in the Belém area. Check visiting days and tickets through the exhibition link. If you are travelling after the announced period, consult the new programme before keeping this stop.

Where to stay and what to pack

Choose accommodation with the start and end of these two days in mind. If Alfama is part of the appeal, check access to the address with luggage and ask about stairs. For this itinerary, it is also worth comparing addresses near Baixa and Praça do Comércio, considering transport to Belém. Do not choose by neighbourhood name alone.

In Mala Inteligente, start your checklist with comfortable walking shoes, a layer for pauses near the river and room for whatever the forecast requires. Paving and hills deserve more attention than a second pair of attractive shoes. Check the weather close to your trip and adjust the list to your style of sightseeing.

To work out your budget, separate accommodation, transport, meals and the paid attraction you have actually chosen. Check these costs for your dates and in euros. If money is tight, keep your walks around the square and along the riverbank and choose just one paid visit. A custard tart does not need an impossible schedule alongside it.

Which option suits you?

OptionA good fit if…What to consider
Just one daySanta Luzia, part of Alfama and Praça do Comércio.If custard tarts and Jerónimos are your priorities, follow the Belém day instead.
Two daysThe historic centre one day, Belém the next.Choose Jerónimos or MAAT as your main visit; doing both takes more time.
Less walkingPraça do Comércio and stops in Belém, using transport between them.Check access at each address: this itinerary does not certify accessibility.

Your itinerary, ready to save

Santa Luzia → Alfama → Praça do Comércio

Start at the viewpoint, explore part of the neighbourhood and finish beside the Tagus, stopping at Cais das Colunas.

Prefer an alternative? To avoid some of the hills, stick to Praça do Comércio and Cais das Colunas; save Alfama for another day.

Jerónimos → Pastéis de Belém → waterfront

Plan your monastery visit and include a stop at the pastry shop. Afterwards, choose a stretch of the waterfront for a stroll.

Prefer an alternative? Swap the interior of Jerónimos for MAAT if you prefer art or the ticket does not fit your plans. Check the exhibition for your travel dates.

Before you go

  • Jerónimos: check access, tickets and opening arrangements through the official channel.
  • MAAT: check the programme for your travel dates; the exhibition mentioned ends in January 2027.
  • Alfama: check the route with luggage and the accommodation’s features, especially stairs.
  • Belém: plan transport there and back without relying on a short queue or a perfect connection.

Questions to help you decide

Do I need to take a tram for this itinerary to work?

No. This itinerary brings places together and does not rely on a particular route. Choose transport from your accommodation and check the route on the day; do not assume you can board immediately to reach a booked visit.

Can I fit Sintra into these two days?

We suggest setting aside another day for Sintra. Taking time away from these two days in Lisbon changes the plan considerably; if Sintra is your priority, choose which Lisbon day to replace.

Do I have to visit MAAT and Jerónimos on the same day?

No. Choose whichever interests you most and enjoy an unhurried stop at Pastéis de Belém. If you have more time, you can consider both visits.

Ready to start planning?

Prepare my checklist in Mala Inteligente ↗

Sources and editorial review

This is a researched guide, not a personal account of a visit. The itinerary suggestions are editorial recommendations. Confirm opening arrangements, prices and conditions close to your trip.