:root{--ink:#153c35;--paper:#faf8f2;--line:#dedfd3;--muted:#58655e;--accent:#aa542f}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.7 system-ui,sans-serif}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{text-decoration:underline}a:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #bd761f;outline-offset:5px}.skip{position:absolute;left:-10000px}.skip:focus{left:12px;top:10px;background:white;z-index:10}.masthead{max-width:1320px;margin:auto;padding:24px 44px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;font:700 33px Georgia,serif}.brand img{object-fit:contain}.masthead nav{display:flex;gap:30px;font-size:14px}.preview{padding:8px;text-align:center;background:#eae7d8;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.05em}main{max-width:1232px;margin:auto;padding:0 32px 60px}.intro{padding:62px 0 46px}.eyebrow{font-size:12px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent)}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-weight:400;line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.035em}h1{font-size:clamp(42px,6.2vw,82px);max-width:1050px;margin:18px 0 28px}.intro>p:last-child,.deck{font-size:21px;color:var(--muted);max-width:830px}.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:46px 28px}.card.featured{grid-column:1/-1}.featured>a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr;background:#eeeede;align-items:center}.cover{position:relative;overflow:hidden}.cover img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;display:block}.cover span{position:absolute;bottom:10px;left:14px;font-size:10px;color:white;background:#153c35d9;padding:3px 8px}.card-copy{padding:20px 0}.featured .card-copy{padding:34px}.card h2{font-size:35px;margin:12px 0 18px}.featured h2{font-size:clamp(33px,3.6vw,49px)}.card-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}.card b{font-size:13px}.article-head{max-width:1040px;margin:48px auto 36px}.article-head h1{font-size:clamp(39px,5.8vw,72px)}.byline{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}figure{margin:0}.hero img{width:100%;height:auto;max-height:660px;object-fit:cover;display:block}.hero figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:9px 0}.article-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:230px minmax(0,760px);gap:70px;margin:50px auto;max-width:1100px}.contents{font-size:13px;align-self:start;position:sticky;top:30px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:18px}.contents a{display:block;line-height:1.45;margin-top:18px;color:var(--muted)}.prose{min-width:0}.prose h2{font-size:35px;margin:48px 0 20px}.prose h3{font-size:26px}.prose p{margin:0 0 20px}.prose li{margin-bottom:10px}.answer{background:#edf0e6;padding:28px;border-left:3px solid #a9b895}.answer p:not(.eyebrow){font:25px/1.4 Georgia,serif}.references{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.references a,.sources a{text-decoration:underline}.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto}table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:14px;text-align:left}th,td{padding:15px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}thead{background:#edf0e6}tbody th{min-width:120px}.itinerary{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:8px 0 22px}.itinerary small{color:var(--muted)}details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 0}summary{font-weight:600;cursor:pointer}details p{padding-top:15px}.next{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:26px;margin-top:45px}.next h2{margin-top:0}.next a{display:block;margin:15px 0;text-decoration:underline}.sources{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}.end{padding:44px;max-width:1232px;margin:auto;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:13px}.pagination{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin:30px 0}@media(max-width:760px){.masthead{padding:16px 20px}.masthead nav{gap:12px}.masthead nav a:last-child{display:none}.brand{font-size:28px}.brand img{width:34px;height:34px}main{padding:0 20px 36px}.intro{padding:36px 0}.cards,.featured>a{grid-template-columns:1fr}.featured .card-copy{padding:24px}.cards{gap:26px}.card h2{font-size:32px}.article-head{margin-top:32px}.article-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:20px;margin-top:25px}.contents{position:static}.contents nav{display:flex;gap:12px;overflow-x:auto;padding-bottom:12px}.contents a{min-width:140px;margin-top:12px}.prose h2{font-size:30px}.deck{font-size:19px}.answer{padding:22px}.hero img{min-height:240px}.end{padding:30px 20px}th,td{padding:10px}.byline{line-height:1.6}}

.place-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;margin:12px 0 28px}.place-links a{border:1px solid #b7bfae;border-radius:4px;padding:9px 14px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600}.story-photo{margin:32px 0}.story-photo img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px}.story-photo figcaption{padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);line-height:1.5}.story-photo figcaption p{font-size:16px;margin:0 0 6px}.story-photo small{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.story-photo small a{text-decoration:underline}section{scroll-margin-top:20px}